Day Trip: Tasting in the Vineyards of the Haute Valley
It became even more evident on my visit to the US. There are no better wines for the dollar (oops, euro) than are produced locally. In addition to the acclaimed Blanquettes, quality extends to the whites, reds and roses we enjoy in the regions bars and restaurants. These are wines which need not be cellared - they are drinkable (no, way past drinkable, they’re great) when released.
Tasting rooms are often in comfortable settings within the vineyard and views are spectacular. Find a spouse or friend to serve as designated driver, grab a baguette, sausages or pates and some cheese and have great day without using much petrol. I will only suggest venues familiar to me by personal experience. It gives me a chance to expand my horizons as well. Word of warning - expect to return home with a boot full of bottles.
I’m not a sniff and swirl drinker. My nose won’t fit into wine glasses and legs are only important on a good looking woman. (Yes Jules, you top the list). I only wish to rate a wine on the “damn, that’s good” scale. As far as I’m concerned, most any wine goes well with a good entrecote and it would take a hell of a wine to go with liver and onions.
Always work from the farthest destination back toward home. Near Limoux is Pieusse; at the Y in the road take a right and up in the hills is Domaine De Fourn. Talk about views, this sets a high bar. The majestic Pyrenees loom to the southwest from the terrace outside the tasting room. Their signature red Robert is great with cheese, but Jules suggests a Blanquette Ancestrale with chocolate, special dark preferred. For that element of a perfect day stop in Luc-sur-Aude at the artisanal chocolate shop on the way.
Call ahead to arrange a tour of the estate’s cave in which rest generations of quality vintages. Some bottles stored there are of indeterminate vintage because the dust is so thick. The oldest I can attest to was a 1911. Spend an hour relaxing on the terrace while sharing a Blanquette before returning to Limoux and travelling several miles to the expansive chateau and grounds of Domaine Gayda.
Recently a friend introduced me to a tasty bold Syrah (T’air D’oc) by Domaine Gayda. I was unfamiliar with Gayda wines, but now I am determined to become familiar with their whole line - possibly avoiding the top end varieties which are expensive. While doing research for this blog I discovered that some of the labels are sold internationally. Unlike most local wine makers whose tasting areas are small cozy rooms, the Gayda facility is an expansive, modern section of the chateau which was built in the eighteenth century. A recent visit introduced me to several tasty options. Another element which sets Gayda apart is that a fine dining restaurant is located within. The views are expansive but plan to enjoy lunch at one of the other settings which are more scenic.
The final stop of the day is Domaine Saint-Jacques near Montazels. Proceed to Couiza, cross the bridge, hang a right and keep going up into the hills. Signs clearly mark the way. Climb out of the car and take in the view - it’s worthy of a few pictures. Then follow the beads into the cozy domain of Danial Torregrosa and enjoy the wines while listening to the stories. Danial speaks no English but if you have a little French, he will entertain you. My favorite offering is the Rose, but friends think the Merlot-Cabernet blend steals the show. The chardonnay is reliably good. Saint-Jacques also has a small grove of olive trees and Danial sells a very good tapenade made of his olives. It would make a great accompaniment to the baguette and cheese. Finish things up with a Cremant and those sinful chocolates.
I have yet to participate in a group tour, but hiring a van and driver and piling a dozen or so friends in would make a great day. Keep the day going with appetizers (entrees) on the terrace and finish with steaks on the grill (no liver allowed) accompanied by some of your purchases. After all, the views around here are pretty spectacular too.