Memorial Ceremony for Paul Swank and the Maquis Killed in Operation Peg
Some experiences are humbling. Others are exhilarating. A few are truly fulfilling. Yesterday Jules and I participated in one that brought all emotions into focus. Because of the COVID-19 pandemic, there could be no formal celebration of the ambush which led to the deaths of four soldiers, three French resistance fighters, and Lt. Paul Swank of the US Army. However, the tradition of honoring them was uninterrupted. Much like the many years since the end of WWII, local citizens gathered at the monument along D117 which holds the remains of Lt. Swank on the anniversary of his death, August 17th. Unlike past years, no family members traveled from America to participate. Ju and I were the only English speakers in attendance among the twenty who gathered.
Gendarmes slowed traffic as we approached the tomb. We were greeted warmly until they discovered we were Americans; then we were introduced to everyone present and allowed freedom to converse with the two celebrities, 97 year old Taillan and 95 year old Fredo, the only surviving members of the local Maquis. As the morning progressed, we had free rein to question them on knowing Lt. Swank, on the relationship that developed between them and the 16 US soldiers who parachuted into the Haute Valley, and on the attack that led to four deaths (24 German soldiers died that day as well). The stories were fascinating and told by two really sharp old guys who still remembered clearly everything about Operation Peg. Refer to my previous blog for details of the events 76 years ago.
One of the really neat stories involved the evenings in the camp near Salvezines. To fill the hours when the meal was over, the French sang familiar songs. A few of the Americans spoke a little of the local language and joined in. However, when “Alouette, gentile Alouette” began, all the soldiers boisterously joined and the song rang through the forest. By the end of the third day, the US soldiers were familiar with most of the ballads and camaraderie was built.
A moment of silence and the playing of both French and American anthems closed the ceremony on a somber note. We then joined the procession to Alet-les-Bains. Next to the gare is a memorial commemorating the Spanish who served with the local Maquis. Like us, you have driven by it numerous times without the slightest inkling of its existence. The civil war in Spain drove young Spaniards over the Pyrenees and into the Aude. A number joined the resistance and several died fighting the Germans. The two living veterans shared remembrances of those volunteers. A moment of silence was observed, flowers were placed on the memorial by the mayor of Alet, and the Spanish anthem was played.
The final stop required a drive that would be better accomplished by mountain goats. Before Luc-sur-Aude is a turnoff which leads up steep inclines on rough gravel paths. At the top is a small widened area of stones which served as a car park. A short walk up the path revealed another monument naming the four killed in the German ambush. The view from the cliff’s edge is spectacular; the river and the road wind below. According to the veterans, the enemy sneaked through a hillside vineyard to gain the advantage. The mayor of Luc spoke, wreaths were laid, and the French version of Taps was played.
It was a wonderful morning. I alternately smiled and teared up. Getting to know the veterans was special; it brought history into perspective and provided additional depth of understanding of the sacrifices that were made. My hope is that the ancient survivors live to tell their story to others - at least a few more years. They are “cool dudes”. Be more than curious about the tomb at the side of the road; join the celebration of bravery next August 17th.