Fish and Chips: Friday Night in Quillan
Every other Friday evening from March through October, the “Fish and Chips” truck pulls to a stop on the promenade in Quillan. It’s one of several destinations around the Haute Valley rotating on a two week schedule. By 6:30 PM (18:30 world time) hungry residents of the area grab tables inside the PMU bar when the weather is occasionally nasty or on the promenade itself on most warm sunny evenings. A blend of French locals and expats then sip wine (gin and tonics are served) or beer and await the feast which is delivered with a smile.
Reservations are essential. Over 100 meals are served by Chris and Claire amid cheek kiss greetings, voices raised in genial conversations and much hearty laughter. The favorite delivery is Cod or Haddock and Chips (fries to Americans and Frites to the French) which cost around 10 euros. Also on the menu are shrimp and sausages. Everything is dipped in a batter and deep fried to golden crispness. This is not a heart healthy menu, but damn is it good. No silverware is offered and none is needed unless mushy peas are included (I always replace the fries with them - my little nod to a balanced diet). Salt and pepper and malt vinegar are provided, but most veterans bring tartar sauce for the fish and ketchup or mayo for the chips. By 8:30 service has been completed and the crowd begins to filter away. Often groups migrate to the Espace Cathare for a concert or a residence for nightcaps or card games. During the festival season, bands play and dancing goes on until early morning. Since the lockdown ended, night markets have also been available for entertainment on Fridays in the plaza opposite the Gare.
On alternating Fridays, the PMU offers a barbeque. Ian, the personable Aussie, grills chicken breast, merguez, and local sausages serving them along with very good frites. It’s impossible to go away hungry. For nine euros, the meal is more than any health conscious person should consume, but take the remnants home for Saturday morning hash. Add onions and peppers and a fried egg on top and it will chase away any lingering effects of over-serving yourself. (note: this is a walking village, so drinking and driving is not a problem.)
These are examples of how the local businesses cater to the English speaking minority. The PMU enjoys a profitable evening and we expats enjoy yet another excuse to socialize.