Night Markets
The pandemic which has hit the world has impacted the Haute Valley in many ways. A few have died and others have suffered through the recovery process. Schools and businesses have closed. Everyone has in some way been affected.
Summer months are usually a vibrant time here. Tourists descend from around the EU and beyond, the terraces of the bars and cafes overflow, reservations are essential at restaurants and day markets are jammed. Festivals occur weekly. Some are organized around competitions which include the race up the col (Formula 1 racers as well as rank amateurs in their Renaults challenge the twisting D118 for 6 kilometers to the top of the mountain), the criterium (professional bikers circle a half-mile loop through the village 70 times) and the French national petanque championship (boules in other countries). Other fetes feature themes which include jazz, Spanish heritage, and Bastille Day. The firemen (pompiers) host a great night feast with three courses (pork roasted over open fires) served in one of the village squares accompanied by bands playing and wine flowing.
Our introduction to local fetes came on a July evening in Campagne-Sur-Aude, a neighboring village less than three miles downriver. Julie had insisted that we might be happier in a smaller village so we booked a home for two months just off the square (actually a circle which at one time was the moat) in Campagne. The village is quaint but quiet. Our third night began strangely. We strolled into the square and came to an immediate halt. The local dance group was doing the Texas Two Step to country music (this was recorded and sent to our friends and family in the states). Tables were arranged strategically among stands featuring food specialties, produce, art and crafts, and local wines. We found seats and to our surprise the couples around us all spoke English. Thus began friendships which last today.
Twice each summer the Campagne night market takes over the village. I would highly recommend attending at least once. The food is fantastic and varied. Bowls of escargot are served from one stand for seven euros. Another roasts a whole hog. A third serves duck breast burgers (rare and delicious). Another serves frites. A local winery opens bottles of white, red and rose for five euros and commemorative glasses go for two. At dusk the DJ takes over and dancing begins. Having a friend or spouse to serve as designated driver is essential.
Quillan’s night market is usually held in the Place de la Republique. It’s important to arrive early enough to get a table at one of the cafes which surround the square. It seems that fewer food options are offered mainly because the Fleuvre and the Palace serve evening meals. Most of the stands offer Arts and Crafts. Vendors seem to favor the Wednesday and Saturday day markets - variety there is much greater. Usually there are music options during the evening and all are pretty good (a French band singing GLORIA was a bit humorous). The featured bands are routinely good and provide great tunes for dancing. Music goes on until early morning.
All in all, don’t go to the night markets to shop. The twice weekly ones are for that. The markets at night serve a decidedly different purpose. They basically intend to entertain and provide a good venue for meeting friends; families are encouraged and kids are everywhere. Wanna party?? Hit the night markets.