Things to Do Around the Haute Valley - Cheap or for Free
Lunch time picnics are a great way to eat a meal cheaply while enjoying what nature has to offer. For the more adventurous and physically able, hikes into the surrounding mountains with a backpack full of goodies is a day-long activity. The local hiking club often arranges activities that include stops for lunch at village cafes or private homes which cater to groups. Biking tours include similar itineraries.
For those of us whose thirst for strenuous challenges has been satisfied, a short drive allows for many different opportunities to drink in the local scenery (which is generally spectacular from all angles) and share a meal in the grand weather to which we have become accustomed.
At the top of the Col (take D117 toward Puivert) is a large area which affords views over the valley and the surrounding mountains. Those views are spectacular. All of Quillan is visible far below. The peaks which surround are inspiring. Wildflowers abound. Parking is easy and picnic tables allow for comfortable eating, but really picnics are not necessarily about comfort. It’s all about the food, drink and company. Word of caution, don’t plan a picnic for a first date or 50th wedding anniversary.
Travel a few more kilometers on D117 to the lake in Puivert. Incorporate a swim if that’s of interest or lay on the beach. Take your favorite foods along or there’s a better option. During late spring and summer months, the café serves full meals in a shelter overlooking the lake. Arrive early or the chicken will be gone. If you are eager for new experiences, glider flights are offered nearby.
Another place to consider is the park of St. Bertrand. It’s fairly new but offers two lakes (one for swimming and sun bathing on the stone recliners - unbelievable that granite formed into beach chairs can be so comfortable - and the other for paddle-boarding and fishing). The best part is that it’s in the village of Quillan itself so it requires no travel. If you have kids or grandkids visiting, the inflatable play section of the lake is popular. Eliminates the need to entertain the little buggers while you walk the trails or just enjoy the vistas.
The rest is up to you, but for a true French picnic you must include a baguette, several cheeses and a bottle of wine. Options include sausages, pates, fruits and veggies for munching, and sweet something for dessert. No fried chicken, barbequed ribs, potato salad or cowboy beans needed here. Some tips are necessary for a successful lunch in the open air. Shopping at the local super markets is fine. Selection is adequate and quality is consistent. However, somehow the charm of a picnic is lost when the food comes out of plastic containers. Instead, the Saturday market in Quillan or the Sunday one in Esperaza are much more authentic and a hell of a lot more fun. Rely on the butcher shops for sausages and pates (the Mousse du Canard at Chez Richard is a must) and baguette and desserts from either bakery. I’m not a big fan of Blanquette, but for a picnic it’s a great choice. Take along sun screen and bug repellant to insure that the day after will not be painful. In a later blog I’ll explore the variety of foods and wines available and where exactly you’ll want to shop.